Dassai Bar 23 (獺祭Bar 23), Kyobashi, Tokyo, Japan, October 2013
Dassai Bar 23 opened up in May of 2013. They serve up small izakaya snacks and the full range of Dassai sakes, including seasonal offerings and Dassai Beyond (which will set you back ¥6250 -that’s around $60 USD- per glass).
Yodare-ya (よだれ屋), Shibuya, Tokyo, Japan, October 2013
We found Yodare-ya on Bento.com while wandering around Shibuya and after a rather lengthy quest which included a brief pit stop at the local Abbot’s Choice pub, we finally found our destination and a great night of food and drinks and a very conversational staff.
Sake Bar Ganko Oyaji (銘酒居酒屋 頑固おやじ), Shinjuku, Tokyo, Japan, October 2013
Our discovery of Ganko Oyaji was the result of casual stroll around the neighborhood in Shinjuku. We were quite pleased to find a diverse sake menu, friendly staff, and excellent tasting sets, even though there was very little English to be read or heard.
Sake No Ana (酒の穴), Ginza, Tokyo, Japan, October 2013
Sake No Ana came recommended by Sake Samurai, Tim Sullivan. Along with a very helpful staff, they probably have the largest sake selection if any sake bar I’ve visited in Tokyo.
Sake Bar Yakouressha (夜行列車), Ueno, Tokyo, Japan, October 2013
We stumbled upon this izakaya while seeking a quiet bar to escape the crowded Ueno streets. The crowd was very welcoming and their sake suggestions were fantastic. The most memorable though, was the Dewazakura Nama served in the brewery’s own masu.
Hi-Collar, New York, July 2013
Last summer, Hi-Collar opened up in New York’s East Village. It has the interesting distinction of being a kissaten by day and Sake Bar by night.
Sake Bar Decibel, New York City, May 2013
Sake Bar Decibel, with it’s impressive sake selection and unique decor, has become something of a institution for New Yorkers looking to experience sake.
Why Sake?
In March of 2006, I went over to Japan for the first time, an experience which in the grand scheme of things would one day have big repercussions. My exposure to Japanese culture had pretty much been limited to the few anime i could stomach and video games that i had been playing since the fifth grade. I had no interest in the food or drink, i was only there to visit some arcades and see the pretty lights. I expected to live on McDonalds and Starbucks while ducking into bars hoping that they spoke enough English for me to order a decent vodka and tonic.
As a side note, it’s worth mentioning that I actually ended up living on doughnuts, bread, and french fries for most of the trip and avoided McDonalds and Starbucks completely. I should also mention that I managed to lose around 10lbs over the course of ten days. It turns out that "not trying new foods in a foreign country" is a pretty good weight loss plan.
My understating of sake was pretty similar to what most westerners envision when they hear the word. exotic looking ceramic bottles filled with warm, not exactly foul tasting liquid which wont offend your tongue too badly as long as you drink it fast enough.
Our first night in Tokyo ended with us to grabbing dinner at the Ginza Lion, a delightful beer hall for salarymen and expats and most definitely not a place that comes up when discussing sake. My friend Eddy, whose self imposed task in life is to convince me to branch out and try new things regardless of how often rebuff him, ordered up a little bottle of Hakutsuru Draft Sake(it was the only option apart from "house sake" on the menu, and years of experience has taught me that "house"-anything is typically a bad idea in all but the finest eateries). After some insistence on his part and careful debate and deliberation on mine, I finally decided to have a sip...
Just a sip.
There was no mind blowing revelation that night, as Hakutsuru Draft isn't the finest example of quality that nihonshu has to offer, but it opened a very important door and led to me developing an appreciation which eventually became a serious passion, even though it's happened at something of a glacial pace.
But everything needs to start somewhere, and the events of that evening have led to this. These days i try to educate my friends (and anyone who will listen) on sake, to share what I've learned and to correct those misconceptions that so many westerners (and there are many) have about what's become my favorite beverage.
There are some excellent blogs out there devoted to sake and izakayas, sites like Tim Sullivan's Urban Sake are outstanding resources for the serious sake fan. but my intention here is more entry level, with a focus on just talking about my experiences trying new sakes and izakaya along with some photos of my journeys.